For over 40 years,
A revolution at the heart of
men’s skincare
“
We wanted to enhance the men’s skincare routine.
Didier Rase
Science, perseverance, and innovation
Back in 1988, Sauba Dermatologie was created as the dermatology division of Sanofi. Three years later, Didier Rase took over and renamed it CS Dermatologie. The company quickly became a leading French pharmaceutical laboratory in dermatology by developing pharmacological treatments for eczema, acne, psoriasis, infectious dermatitis, severe dry skin (ichthyosis), and especially hormonal skin aging.
Under Didier Rase’s leadership, the laboratory progressively expanded its product portfolio by launching new dermo-cosmetic ranges and acquiring marketing authorizations for Oxyplastine (erythema treatment), Fazol (antifungal), Cetavlon, and Jonctum (wound healing). In 1991, CS Dermatologie, together with Professor Aron-Brunetière, promoted a prescription topical treatment to combat hormonal skin aging in menopausal women: Fadiamone. Didier Rase then decided to apply the same scientific approach to men and their specific needs. The progressive decline of male testosterone over time became his priority.
Patents in application
• Topical antimicrobial composition and uses – 1992
• Émulsion multiple L/H/L, procédé de préparation et utilisation topique – 1999
• Alkylglycoside compositions inhibiting adhesion of microorganisms (family member of FR2827763) – 2011
• Use of compositions containing at least one lignan and/or neolignan for modulating testosterone levels – 2016
Exploring
the plant kingdom
“
We started by identifying the significant differences between the aging processes of female and male skin,” explains Didier Rase. “At menopause, the drop in female hormones is compensated by medical treatments, including hormone replacement therapies. But what about men? »
Our research began with this observation: male testosterone peaks around age 30, then declines by about 2% per year starting from 30-40 years old,” continues Dr. Philippe Bernard, biochemistry expert. “This leads to thinning skin, which becomes more fragile and less elastic.” Microcirculation deteriorates, the protective hydrolipidic film disappears, cellular renewal slows down, and the skin becomes vulnerable to external aggressions and yellows.
We needed to find a metabolic solution, a molecule able to protect and slow down progesterone degradation without negatively impacting the skin and hair, concludes Didier Rase.
This thinner skin, with less collagen and elastin, wrinkles, adds Dr. Bernard. Regarding hair, the 5-alpha reductase enzyme transforms depleted testosterone and accelerates the hair cycle, causing hair thinning and loss.
To find a molecule capable of stopping this testosterone deficiency, Didier Rase and Dr. Bernard screened a chemical library of over 250,000 plant molecules using virtual screening and docking techniques to identify molecular interactions. Four molecules were identified as able to slow testosterone degradation, but only one safely inhibited the three substances involved in progressive testosterone deficiency: SHBG (Sex Hormone-Binding Globulin), 5-Alpha reductase, and Aromatase.
Phyto-Androzyme®—from “phyto” (plant), “andros” (man), and “enzyme” (metabolism-affecting molecule)—was born.
”
1979
Creation of the first men’s cosmetic product line under the slogan
“Men have skin. That’s new!” and innovation with an opaque gel formula better suited to male habits. At a time of cold creams, this was a breakthrough.
1991
Acquisition from Sanofi of the entire dermatology division (Sauba Dermatologie) and creation of CS Dermatologie, which quickly became a leading French dermatology laboratory. CS Dermatologie stood out with original formulations:
• Invention of «micro-encapsulation of bactericides»
an innovation praised internationally and now used in many «controlled-release» products (antiseptics, deodorants, etc.)..
• Launch in pharmacies of the first “continuous oily phase” line,
specially adapted for black and mixed-race skin.
• Development with Prof. Aron-Brunetière of a prescription cream for combating hormonal skin aging in menopausal women, later reformulated in cosmetology as a soy phytoestrogen product.
2006
Sale of CS Dermatologie pharmaceutical labs and creation of Laboratoires Didier Rase dedicated to hormone-cosmetology research.
2013
Laboratoires Didier Rase introduced the first formula to fight hormonal skin aging in men: Phyto-Androzyme®. This plant molecule extracted from magnolia bark preserves testosterone. It is the only active ingredient in the world specifically targeting men’s skin. The discovery is protected by an exclusive international patent.
2025
Launch of the new generation fluid hydro-redensifying emulsion enriched with Phyto-Androzyme®.
Responsible sourcing
Solidarity actions
Eco-design
